A Tughlaq-era hunting lodge in the heart of Delhi

Pardon me for the language, but “Delhi is littered with monuments”. I say littered because there are many monuments lying in shambles across Delhi. Perhaps not feasible and possible for the governmental agencies to restore or take proper care of them. A large section of the population is not sensitized about them, and a common way of referring them is Purana Qila. Although the Purana Qila as a monument stands near Pragati Maidan, many Delhittes refer every nameless monument in Delhi as Purana Qila.

There is an interesting piece of story behind Purana Qila, it is a fort that was the seat of power for many rulers such as Sher Shah Suri and Humayun. Some even say that it stands where once the erstwhile city of Indraparastha was located. We will delve into that story someday else.

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This story is about about how I stumbled upon a shikargah, recently, at Teen Murti, which was once the residence of India’s first Prime Minister Jawahar Lal Nehru. The Shikargah is located just next to the planetarium. Steep steps lead to the shikargah. After the first flight of stairs there is a flat area where a plaque says that it is a shikargah built during the reign of Firoz Shah Tughlaq. Shikargah is a hunti lodge. My companion was wondering how a hunting lodge could come up in this area to which I had to explain that most parts of present day Chanakyapuri was once part of the Delhi ridge—northern extension of the ancient Aravali Range, so once it must have been a forest area.

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Another flight of steep steps lead to the shikargah. It is a small monument that at some point must have been a resting place for the royalties while they were out hunting. There is a huge open area attached to the main Shikargah. This place must have offered a pristine view of the jungle around then.

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Another dimension to the story is that it is the second shikargah built during the reign of Firoz Shah Tughlaq, which still stands today. The other one is next to the Delhi Earth Station, which is known as Malcha Mahal, where Prince Ali Raza and Princess Sakina, children of the deceased Princess Wilayat Mahal, supposed descendants of the Nawab of Oudh, still resides in complete obscurity detached from the present-day Delhi world. There is a lot of myth and mystery attached to the siblings and the Malcha Mahal. Delhi-based heritage activist’s blog vikramjits.wordpress.com gives a comprehensive account of the mystery behind Malcha Mahal.

Next time, if you are tired of visiting the Delhi malls, head to Teen Murti, where you stand to learn a lot about our heritage, and remember there is no entrance fee.

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